Building the Victoria - Running Rigging |
Rig Slippery SheetsSHEET MATERIAL = SPECTRA, as kite string or fishing line called "Spider Wire". SHORT ROUTE:
Run spectra from boom (double half-hitch knot with super glue to hold) through NEW HOLE directly on center line of the main deck (between the two fake primary winches) then through the kit-provided winch arm hole then run aft through cockpit hole closest to the cockpit provided cleat, rap-around cleat and super glue. (Note: on my centerline hole I glued a nylon ring (1/2" diameter by 3/16" thick, old RC car bearing replaced with ball-bearing) that helps to keep water on deck from going below). I also glued in a brass eye into the winch arm hole to increase slipperiness...not sure it really does though. Run spectra (separate line never joins main sheet) from jib club (double half-hitch knot with super glue to hold) through the forward deck pad-eye (brass eye glued in to make slippery) then just like the main sheet (through NEW HOLE directly on center line of the main deck (between the two fake primary winches) then through the kit-provided winch arm hole, then run aft through cockpit hole closest to the cockpit provided cleat, wrap-around cleat and super glue.) In summary, I have three boats that have all be re-rigged as above. They are fast (great close hauled control point on main sheet) that continue to provide a lot of fun with little fuss (no ritual recharging of batteries, just turn the switch "off"). The key to the center line hole is to replace the kit hatch with flexible plastic hatch the can be squeezed into place (bent up in the middle to fit into the long slots of the hatch holder) rather than slid in place. This allows you to put the NEW CENTERLINE HOLE and water preventer in place and use nylon ring to lock in place that new flexible hatch...wish I had a picture to show you... Flexible hatch material = clear stencil plastic from OFFICE Depot of white flexible plastic like that used for those goofy signs( "BIRTHDAY BOY, BABY SHOWER, GREATEST DAD" etc) found at M.J. DESIGN or other novelty stores. Click Here to return to the main Building Page |
Make Your Own Fairleadsby Lee Binette Through-deck fittings, like fairleads, come in many shapes and sizes. They can be part of a kit, jury-rigged from other parts or purchased from Pop Up or PKB. Or you can make them yourself. These directions will show you how to make very low friction fairleads from parts you can get at an arts and crafts store. The directions are as easy to follow as they are to apply. You will need to purchase 2 glass beads for each fairlead and a length of plastic tubing to fit inside the beads. The beads are usually used to make bracelets and necklaces and have a larger hole than most. Some beads have an abrasive coating, see orange beads in Figure 1, which makes it easier to glue onto the plastic tube. Their diameter is slightly smaller than the gray beads also seen in Figure 1. Small diameter aluminum tubing can also be used. In some cases you may want to sleeve the plastic tube in aluminum for added rigidity.
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Sources for Spider Wire (Sheet Line)from VRC Forum Ward:
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Using Bowsies With Thin SheetsI used to think that (bowsies would slip if it the sheets were too
thin). I would make up bowsies out of scrap plastic (or extra servo arms)
and put in extra holes...making really long bowsies.
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Main Sheet Towerby Jim Jim A good sheet tower for the main can be very simply made by bending a piece of brass flat 3/8 in. wide into a V with a 1/2 in. flat at the top. Bend 2 short legs on the bottom and bolt through the black winches. Solder a 3/4 length of brass to the top flat extending to the stern, drill and insert servo eyelet directly over the sheet exit hole through the hull. This will allow the continued use of the sliding hatch Click Here to return to the main Building Page |
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